Last night was a like a rally race. The local bus from Jerusalem to Tiberias moved like a rogue Israeli bullet, fast and a bit unpredictable, but it did hit its mark and today we set out to explore the Sea of Galilee and some of the major sites close to Christianity’s heart.
Having picked up a cab at the Scot’s Hotel (a Presbyterian joint) we drove the short distance north to Magdala where a 1st century synagogue is being excavated. It’s likely to have been a location Jesus would have preached in and is now also home to a wonderful modern church with some beautiful mosaic art works and an iconic boat shaped altar, framed by vast glass vistas looking out over the sea. It was unusually peaceful and the calm waters of the sea could be heard lapping around the tall reeds huddled near the shore at the back of the church.
Heading further north now to our next stop in Kibbutz Ginosar we managed to haggle a space on one of the wooden motor boats that head out onto the sea for short tours. All was serene with only the drum of the boats engine and a gurggling water pump spitting out surplus water rhythmically.
Looking out the sun sparkled and glinted upon the water and I reckon if I’d been nursing any kind of hangover I would have seen Jesus walking upon the water for a second time, such was the warm haze and irredescent light but instead of a transcendental experience a rave version of hallelujah started blasting out to waken the dead! I’m told by a reliable source (Maddy) that this kind of experience is known officially as ‘modern christian music’. I snarled at the source of such offence, which in hindsight set me up nicely for what me and Maddy are now calling taxi gate.
This story is well known and is probably as old as the dead sea scrolls themselves. Taxi driver meets tourists. Taxi driver is illusive about the fare. Taxi driver demands 300 shekels. Taxi driver bears his teeth. Tourists negotiate like trained UN ambassadors for 10 minutes and then finally snap and I find myself screaming like Begby across the Sea of Galilee to a full audience of 5 coach loads of international tourists. I was later to be recognised by a French tour guide who recounted the incident back to me. Nice, I mean who screams their bodyweight across the sea of Galilee? Some pensive catholic guilt then riddled through me but Maddy assures me he was asking for it.
In consolation the next few stops north allowed my battle ready body to ease the production of cortisol coursing through my viens. I steadied myself and found peaceful repose at the church of the loaves and the fishes, Mensa Christi and Capernaum. We even found some joy in walking along the Jesus Trail before hopping back on an Israeli bullet to Tiberias for a lake side meal of baked aubergine, fresh bread, tahini and for Maddy, Saint Peters fish and chips, oh and a much needed glass of wine from Cana. Tomorrow should see us hit the dizzy lights of Nazareth and Tel Aviv, hopefully without further incident. Do pray for us!
Sharon Gallagher 