Our arrival in Orkney was met with a wet slap of horizontal rain. We disembarked our Northlink ferry from Shetland at 10:30pm to bleak darkness and dense swirling fog. It was hard to see anything other than the soft hazy causeway lights leading up to a rather uninviting industrial road. It didnt take us long to decide on an Orkney cab to shield us from the cold lashing we were facing. The jolly cab driver (craigies cabs) got us up to the Orcadia Hostel, where we set about reversing the sudden onset of hypothermia. Broadies hot chocolate was gulped back as we settled our rattling bodies down for the night.
It was an early start the next morning as we picked up our car from Johnny over at Ticketyboo car hire. He had us giggling with his anntedotal tales of all things Orcadian and set us off westwards, towards Skara Brae: the Machu Picchu of Orkney, only way older. It dates from 3100 bc and gripped us as we stepped back in time, imagining the way of life of these sophisticated ancient builders.
Next we wandered through Skaill House, the Victorian home of the man who first unearthed Skara Brae. It’s fully furnished with a notable dinner set from Captain Cooks fleet and a Tiger rug that curled my lip a fair bit, if I’m honest.
Heading back towards Kirkwall we stopped at the mysterious Ring of Brodgar and Maes Howe. I saw Agnus eyeing up the stones but thankfully she decided she couldnt manage them all in her rucksack. She settled for a stripy stone that’s been caressed ever since clapping eyes on it. One wonders if she isn’t stoned herself with all this wide mouthed gauping at remote masonary.
Kirkwall is a pleasant compact little town with the red sandstone of Saint Magnus’ cathedral at her heart. It watches over the little lanes and shops, quaintly set upon large solid grey slabs. It’s easy to imagine rattly old wooden carts full of fish being pulled by stout horses from the harbour; the history of the town still visible in the worn and characterful buildings.
Today we made the southerly trip down to the beautiful Italian Chapel and down past scapa flow over the long causeways flanked by rusted sunken ships. The masts stretch out of the water at unusual angles and are quite the sight, captivating and distracting drivers dangerously as they make their way across to the islands of Lambholm, Burray and South Ronaldsay.
It’s been quite lovely here, we’ve enjoyed lovely hearty food down near the tomb of eagles, with open views over to John o Groats at the tomb of otters ‘Skerries Bistro’. We tried locally made Gin at ‘Oot the Back’, the outdoor bar attached to the Kirkjuvgr Gin Distillery where you can make your own infused bottle of Gin. Colette sampled smooth, smokey Orkney cheese, making loud noises of approval, as the entire block dissapeared before my eyes.
Here’s hoping we get a chance to come back and sample some more Orkney hospitality soon. Signing oot the noo from our island saga with thoughts of growing a beard and purchasing a two horned helmet. Tattybaba Orkney.
Sharon Gallagher 